Razor Clamming Report at Seaside Oregon for October 13th, 2017

October 14th, 2017

I went Razor clamming yesterday and I wanted to let you know how it went.  This is my first Razor clamming trip in almost 50 years and I had a great time.  I left Lake Oswego around noon and arrived at the 12th Ave. parking lot in Seaside just before 2:00PM.  I geared up and headed out to the beach which was a little bit of a walk in soft sand.  Once I was at the wet sand I saw a clam show and had bagged my first clam.  I quickly found another show and had my second clam within 5 minutes  I thought that this was easy so I moved to into the surf line and worked my way south.  For an hour I pounded sand and did not see another show so I gave up and when back to where I started.  Once back I quickly saw a clam show and had my third and final clam.  I just put the clam in my bag when I was overrun by a herd of tourists running into the surf.   The best part was when the father told the kids not to get their clothes wet.

Too much stomping on the beach frightens the clams so they don’t feed and when they don’t feed there are no shows.  It was now just after low tide so I worked my way North to get away from the tourist and getting frustrated I started digging at anything that look like it might be a show; I startled many sand crabs.

I am going to try again this coming Friday, October 20th.  Low tide is at 9:07 PM so I plan to leave Lake Oswego mid-afternoon to avoid the Friday traffic and be at Seaside around 5 PM. I will get something to eat at be at the 12th Ave. parking lot around 6:30.  At 7PM the tide will be 1 ft and at 9 PM it should be at 0ft so I will clam between 7 and 9 PM.  I will let you know how I do on my second Razor clamming trip.

Transom and Stem

October 3rd, 2017

I glued up the transom with the lower doubler; I still need to add the 2×12 and upper doublers.  The two slots cut in the lower doubler are where the stringers will fit into the transom.  I have made the router patterns to cut out the rounded over parts of the transom so I must likely will do that next.  Having the main part of the transom in the correct shape will help when I cut out the 2×12 and upper doublers.

I had a problem with the wood I used for the stem and even though I had cut it and shaped it correctly I need to make a new one.  The stem is glued up from two Alaskan Yellow Cedar 2×4’s about 4 feet long.  I will plane down the blank to be 2-3/4 x 3-1/2.  The glue line will be the center line of the 3-1/2 inch side.  I will cut off the forward corners at 34° and then shape the rest of the stem from there.

A Dilemma

September 26th, 2017

Home Depot delivered the LVL and I-joists today and I started cutting out the stringers.  LVL is Linear Veneer Lumber which is made similar to plywood where the grain of the veneers in plywood are at 90 degrees to each other, in LVL they all run the same direction which gives the beam it strength. I-joists are beams that have LVL on the top and bottom with OSB (oriented strand board) in the middle.  This make a lighter weight beam that will be used for the building frame.

The stringers are made out of the 1-7/8″ x 14″ LVL beam at cut 8 degrees to get two mirror stringers that are 7-1/16 inch tall.  I setup my track saw to cut the 16 foot long beam in half; I had to use all three of my tracks segments for my track saw to allow me to cut the entire length of the beam in one cut.  Once I have made the stringer templates I can continue cutting and shaping the stringers.  I had to clean up the stringers a little because they were not completely straight; there is a slight bend in two directions.  Nothing to adversely affect the boat but I needed to address it now to avoid problems in the future.

I next started working on the transom by marking the outline.  Only lines marked in red get cut and I need to add the angle that the plywood is cut to.  Keeping track of all angles for the cuts can get tricky.  I will do most of the cut with the track saw and then finish up with a jig saw to connect the cuts that make an inside corner.  Some of the corners are rounded and I will rough cut with the jig saw and then make a template for my router to make the fillets and round overs.

Home Depot gave me a big dilemma; I had ordered a 15 foot LVL beam for the stringers so I could build a 20 foot boat.  Home Depot delivered a 16 foot LVL beam so now I could build at 21 foot boat.  The 20 foot boat will barely fit in the garage; how will I fit a 21 foot boat?

Making Templates

September 18th, 2017

I like making template for marking out lines or to use as patterns to trim the material to size.  I drew the temples for the bow-stem on 1/8 Baltic Birch plywood and cut it out on a band-saw.  There is another way to make templates and that is to use either a CNC router or a laser cutter.  Since I don’t have access to a CNC router and I do have access to a laser cutter at Sylvania PCC I decided to draw the shelve and stringer templates in CAD for the laser cutter.  The laser bed is only 18″ x 32 so I had to find a way to connect the smaller pieces to make the larger template.  The template for the stringer show above is just under 8 feet long and consists of 4 segments.  I designed puzzle joints that I will use to glue the segments together.  The laser can do vector cuts, vector lines and raster images.  Text is usually done in raster and so are pictures but raster is slower than vector so cuts through the plywood are always done as a vector.  In the stringer, I added the angle of the cuts to the template so I don’t have to look it up each time.  I will have to transfer the reference lines from the front to the back when I draw out the seconds stringer since they are mirror images of each other.  Below are the segments as they will be cut out.Since there is a common straight edge gluing the segments together will be easy.

The shelf is longer at 170 inches long, just over 14 feet.  The six segments for the stringer will be cut out of two 18″ x 32″ pieces of 1/4 Baltic Birch.  I added reference lines with known points so I when I glue the segments together  can make sure that the shape is correct.

Sylvania PCC has a laser cutting class starting on September 25th, MCH291 Laser Cutting and Eng. Fund.

Tolman Transom Design

September 15th, 2017

I was working the transom designs for my Tolman Skiff, after several iterations this is what I settled on.The main outboard engine will be either a Suzuki DF60A or DF90A.  The DF60A weighs in at 229 lbs and the DF90A 344 lbs.  The maximum recommended weight for a Widebody skiff is 400 lbs.  If I go with the DF90A and either a Suzuki DF15A or Mercury 9.9HP I would be over the limit.  The DF15 weight is 108 lbs and the 9.9 is 84 lbs.  The auxiliary outboard is offset and raised up to account for the deadrise.Using the transom design from Renn Tolman’s book Tolman Alaskan Skiffs as a starting point I made the changes I wanted.  I opened up the transom so I can have a swim step mounted on the transom opposite the kicker motor.  I will add a full width dry well that can double as a fish box.  The front of the dry well will have a lift out panel that will make accessing the engines easier if there is a problem like fishing line in the prop. 

I drew a side view of the transom so I can avoid cutting the transom wrong.  There are a lot of angles that need to be right.  The bottom of the transom is cut at 15 degrees, the sides at 6 degrees and the top at 15 degrees.  The cut out for the motors are at 0 degrees. 

Here is the PDF of the drawings.

The Tolman Adventure

September 7th, 2017

It is time for a new boat build and this build will be a Tolman Widebody Skiff.  Adventure will be 19′ 10″ long, 7′ 6″ wide, will have a open pilot house and of course built for fishing.  I am planning on using either a Suzuki 60 or 90 HP outboard.  The 60HP has an advantage in weight since it weighs 253lbs, 90 lbs less than the 90HP and also cost less.  A large open rear deck will allow for 3 people to fish comfortably with two downriggers.  There will be a cutty cabin for storage but not for sleeping; Adventure will a be a day boat.

Renn Tolman designed the Tolman Skiff over many years of building and using the skiffs in Alaska and has become a favorite design for a low cost, rugged and sturdy boat.  Toman Skiffs are built using stitch and glue construction like Fish Taco, just bigger and can be built as short at 18ft with the Standard and and as long as 28ft with the Great Alaskan.

At 19′ 10″, Adventure is small for a Widebody but is a little larger than what can be built comfortably in my boat shop (garage).  The ceiling is high enough to build the cabin in side but the garage door it too low to get it out so I will be building the pilot house so it can be removed.

Face Lift

February 2nd, 2017

Fish Taco is getting a face lift; a few additions and repairs are needed to get her ready for the 2017 season.  On the way to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival I had bumped the outdrive of the Suzuki 15 HP motor. The transom and stern knees were cracked.  I purchased some #14 x 4 inch bronze wood screws to stiffen the crack in the stern knees.  The screws have been installed and the screw hole plugged with a bung.  A bung is a wooden plug cut out of similar wood that has the screw hole.  I still have to trim the bung to fit, fill, sand and then paint.  When I am done the repair will be invisible.

I am adding pole holders; the brackets are flush mount and to make them less obtrusive I am routing a recess in the gunwales.  I cut some 1/8 inch plywood strips and then glued them to 6mm plywood, 1/8 inch wider than the bracket.  I drilled a 1-1/2 inch hole in the gunwales for the bracket and then clamped the template to the gunwale so I could route the recess.  I then used my baby router with a 1/4 inch straight cut router bit and a template guide.  The result is a recess that has the bracket just slightly proud of the gunwale.  I still need to seal the area with epoxy.  I will use stainless steel screws and marine caulking to finish the installation of the bracket.

 

 

Snow Day

January 12th, 2017

We had a little snow yesterday; just about a foot.  Most of Portland was shutdown but has started to recover.  The street has been plowed twice but there is still a layer of ice on the roadbed.  I chained up the truck and drove out to the street and immediately turned around and came back in.  It was just too slippery to drive safely.  It is supposed to start raining Monday and by Tuesday I expect that all the snow will have melted.

The pictures were taken late morning on Wednesday and they show just how much snow there is.

Will She Float?

June 27th, 2016

I launch Fish Taco yesterday at Hagg Lake in Gaston Oregon.  Fish Taco is not finished but finished enough to launch.Fish_Taco_launch (Medium) I still need to work on the bridge and anchor deck, install the inwale, finish the thwarts and paint the insides.  The Suzuki 15HP outboard worked well and I am very happy with it.  The power tilt and electric start are very nice.  2016-06-26 12.21.51 (Medium)I did some test runs with 1, 2 and 3 people aboard and she is a little more tender than I would like.  I need to do some more testing to simulate fishing and I might add some water ballast.  I estimated that Fish Taco only weighs about 175lbs and I hope to weight her this week to find out the actual weight.

Launching Fish Taco off the trailer was very easy; I just gave her a push and she rolled/slid off.  Retrieving was a little more difficult as we got one of the bilge keels on the wrong side of the bunk.  We had to lower her back in the lake and bring her up again.  I do have a problem with the trailer; even though I bought a wide trailer it is narrow and I can’t see it when backing up.  I think I will add some trailer guides.

A Little Paint Looks Good

June 20th, 2016

2016-06-19 12.13.50 (Medium)I started painting Fish Taco’s hull.  The paint is Systems Three WR-LPU water-based polyurethane.  The color is Whitby White which is a cream/ivory color.  The very nice thing about this paint is that it can be re-coated in 2 hours depending on the weather/temperature and up to 24 hours without sanding between coats.  It is a little tricky to put on and by the third coat I had improved the process.  Being water-based cleanup is easy as long as you don’t wait too long.  I settled on using a 4 inch wienie roller used for door and cabinets.  I then tipped out the bubbles and streaks using a 3 inch foam brush. While the final paint job is not perfect, there are dust, streaks and runs in the paint, I am happy overall all.  I decided not to put the blue stripe on now so I will have to sand before I do.