Archive for the ‘Tolman’ Category

Looking For Medium

Thursday, March 15th, 2018

I have been glassing the insides of the hull panels with 5.6 oz fiberglass cloth and West System epoxy.  I predominantly use 205 Fast Hardener which is usable down to 40° F which I typically use around 50 to 60° F.  This last week the temperatures were in the 60’s during the day and dropping to the low 50’s at night.  I wanted a long working time so I could have used the 206 Slow Hardener but that may not cure completely when the temperature drops.  I recently read that you can mix the fast and slow hardeners to get a medium hardener.  I tried this on the rear side panels and after curing for two days I don’t see any issues.  I will give it another 3 to 5 days before I sand it and then I will definitely know if there are any issues.

Friday in the Boat Shop, March 9th

Saturday, March 10th, 2018

The weather was nice yesterday and I was able to open the shop while working. Mark N. show up and help me cut the fiberglass and peel ply. Later Rick H. showed up to watch the proceedings. Amazingly both had somewhere else to be when time came to epoxy the fiberglass the the side panel.

The process I use for applying fiberglass the the panel is to lay out the fiberglass where it needs to be and smooth it out. I use lead weights to hold it in place. Since the fiberglass cloth can be pulled out of shape there is a lot of smoothing out. I also set out the equipment that I will need: many sets of gloves, paper coffee cups, stirring sticks, squeegee and paint roller with an epoxy tolerant paint roller cover.

I mix up a batch of epoxy; in this case West Systems 105 resin and 205 Fast hardener. The fiberglass I am using is style 3733 5.6oz. X 50″ Fiberglass Cloth. I pour the epoxy over the fiberglass and spread it evenly. I then make up another batch of mixed epoxy and go and see how the previous batch of epoxy has penetrated the fiberglass. I add more epoxy where it is needed and the rest of the epoxy is used on the adjacent dry area. Once the fiberglass looks wet, I use the roller to even it out and move epoxy to a dry area if needed.  I want the fiberglass wet but not too wet and not too dry; if is off I can still make it work but it is work.

The peel ply was cut into squares and once I have an area of coated fiberglass I put the peel ply down and work out any folds or air bubbles. I was asked why I cut the peel ply into squares instead of using it full length and the reason is to make it easier to remove the folds and bubbles. Also working a large piece of peel ply is a lot of effort to flatten out. Sometimes I have stubborn bubbles that just don’t want to work out so I add denatured alcohol to the paper towel and the alcohol breaks down the surface tension and thins the epoxy. The last thing I do is clean up the tools with denatured alcohol and leave the shop before I get any epoxy on me.  The photo shows the finished side panel with fiberglass and peel ply waiting for the epoxy to cure.

The next Friday at the Boat Show is looking to be March 23rd.

Tolman Skiff Build Resumes

Tuesday, March 6th, 2018

After two months of little progress the Tolman build is moving ahead again.  I was sick in January and the garage was too cold to epoxy in February. The bottom panels have been scarfed, the scarfs glued up and the inside of the panels have been glassed.  In the photo I show two rear side panels having the scarfs glued up at the same time.  After the epoxy cures I will glass the inside of the panels and then they will go into storage until they are needed.  The rear side panels are 32 inches wide while the forward side panels are 48 inches wide to account for the sweep of the bow.  The forward side panels are put on the hull, marked, cutout and then glassed on the inside. It is a lot easier to glass the inside of the panel while they are flat.   The outside of the panels will be glassed when the hull is upside down..

Transom and Stem

Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017

I glued up the transom with the lower doubler; I still need to add the 2×12 and upper doublers.  The two slots cut in the lower doubler are where the stringers will fit into the transom.  I have made the router patterns to cut out the rounded over parts of the transom so I must likely will do that next.  Having the main part of the transom in the correct shape will help when I cut out the 2×12 and upper doublers.

I had a problem with the wood I used for the stem and even though I had cut it and shaped it correctly I need to make a new one.  The stem is glued up from two Alaskan Yellow Cedar 2×4’s about 4 feet long.  I will plane down the blank to be 2-3/4 x 3-1/2.  The glue line will be the center line of the 3-1/2 inch side.  I will cut off the forward corners at 34° and then shape the rest of the stem from there.

A Dilemma

Tuesday, September 26th, 2017

Home Depot delivered the LVL and I-joists today and I started cutting out the stringers.  LVL is Linear Veneer Lumber which is made similar to plywood where the grain of the veneers in plywood are at 90 degrees to each other, in LVL they all run the same direction which gives the beam it strength. I-joists are beams that have LVL on the top and bottom with OSB (oriented strand board) in the middle.  This make a lighter weight beam that will be used for the building frame.

The stringers are made out of the 1-7/8″ x 14″ LVL beam at cut 8 degrees to get two mirror stringers that are 7-1/16 inch tall.  I setup my track saw to cut the 16 foot long beam in half; I had to use all three of my tracks segments for my track saw to allow me to cut the entire length of the beam in one cut.  Once I have made the stringer templates I can continue cutting and shaping the stringers.  I had to clean up the stringers a little because they were not completely straight; there is a slight bend in two directions.  Nothing to adversely affect the boat but I needed to address it now to avoid problems in the future.

I next started working on the transom by marking the outline.  Only lines marked in red get cut and I need to add the angle that the plywood is cut to.  Keeping track of all angles for the cuts can get tricky.  I will do most of the cut with the track saw and then finish up with a jig saw to connect the cuts that make an inside corner.  Some of the corners are rounded and I will rough cut with the jig saw and then make a template for my router to make the fillets and round overs.

Home Depot gave me a big dilemma; I had ordered a 15 foot LVL beam for the stringers so I could build a 20 foot boat.  Home Depot delivered a 16 foot LVL beam so now I could build at 21 foot boat.  The 20 foot boat will barely fit in the garage; how will I fit a 21 foot boat?

Making Templates

Monday, September 18th, 2017

I like making template for marking out lines or to use as patterns to trim the material to size.  I drew the temples for the bow-stem on 1/8 Baltic Birch plywood and cut it out on a band-saw.  There is another way to make templates and that is to use either a CNC router or a laser cutter.  Since I don’t have access to a CNC router and I do have access to a laser cutter at Sylvania PCC I decided to draw the shelve and stringer templates in CAD for the laser cutter.  The laser bed is only 18″ x 32 so I had to find a way to connect the smaller pieces to make the larger template.  The template for the stringer show above is just under 8 feet long and consists of 4 segments.  I designed puzzle joints that I will use to glue the segments together.  The laser can do vector cuts, vector lines and raster images.  Text is usually done in raster and so are pictures but raster is slower than vector so cuts through the plywood are always done as a vector.  In the stringer, I added the angle of the cuts to the template so I don’t have to look it up each time.  I will have to transfer the reference lines from the front to the back when I draw out the seconds stringer since they are mirror images of each other.  Below are the segments as they will be cut out.Since there is a common straight edge gluing the segments together will be easy.

The shelf is longer at 170 inches long, just over 14 feet.  The six segments for the stringer will be cut out of two 18″ x 32″ pieces of 1/4 Baltic Birch.  I added reference lines with known points so I when I glue the segments together  can make sure that the shape is correct.

Sylvania PCC has a laser cutting class starting on September 25th, MCH291 Laser Cutting and Eng. Fund.

Tolman Transom Design

Friday, September 15th, 2017

I was working the transom designs for my Tolman Skiff, after several iterations this is what I settled on.The main outboard engine will be either a Suzuki DF60A or DF90A.  The DF60A weighs in at 229 lbs and the DF90A 344 lbs.  The maximum recommended weight for a Widebody skiff is 400 lbs.  If I go with the DF90A and either a Suzuki DF15A or Mercury 9.9HP I would be over the limit.  The DF15 weight is 108 lbs and the 9.9 is 84 lbs.  The auxiliary outboard is offset and raised up to account for the deadrise.Using the transom design from Renn Tolman’s book Tolman Alaskan Skiffs as a starting point I made the changes I wanted.  I opened up the transom so I can have a swim step mounted on the transom opposite the kicker motor.  I will add a full width dry well that can double as a fish box.  The front of the dry well will have a lift out panel that will make accessing the engines easier if there is a problem like fishing line in the prop. 

I drew a side view of the transom so I can avoid cutting the transom wrong.  There are a lot of angles that need to be right.  The bottom of the transom is cut at 15 degrees, the sides at 6 degrees and the top at 15 degrees.  The cut out for the motors are at 0 degrees. 

Here is the PDF of the drawings.

The Tolman Adventure

Thursday, September 7th, 2017

It is time for a new boat build and this build will be a Tolman Widebody Skiff.  Adventure will be 19′ 10″ long, 7′ 6″ wide, will have a open pilot house and of course built for fishing.  I am planning on using either a Suzuki 60 or 90 HP outboard.  The 60HP has an advantage in weight since it weighs 253lbs, 90 lbs less than the 90HP and also cost less.  A large open rear deck will allow for 3 people to fish comfortably with two downriggers.  There will be a cutty cabin for storage but not for sleeping; Adventure will a be a day boat.

Renn Tolman designed the Tolman Skiff over many years of building and using the skiffs in Alaska and has become a favorite design for a low cost, rugged and sturdy boat.  Toman Skiffs are built using stitch and glue construction like Fish Taco, just bigger and can be built as short at 18ft with the Standard and and as long as 28ft with the Great Alaskan.

At 19′ 10″, Adventure is small for a Widebody but is a little larger than what can be built comfortably in my boat shop (garage).  The ceiling is high enough to build the cabin in side but the garage door it too low to get it out so I will be building the pilot house so it can be removed.