Archive for the ‘Pram’ Category

Looking A Little Blue

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2015

I have started to paint the pram.  The sides are an off white and the bottom and ribs are Largo Blue.  I am using Interlux Brightsides one-part polyurethane and it is very easy to use.  Looking_BlueI am using the roll and tip method to get a very nice finish.  Roll and tip is where the paint is applied with a foam roller then brushed out to remove orange peel.  On the bottom between the runners I used a foam brush and then the paint brush to smooth it out.  The Largo Blue is a bit more blue than I was expecting but it does look good.  Once the painting is done on the inside I will install the inwale, seat riser, stern knees and fore deck.  These will be painted before installation and then touched up.  I am really hopping to have the boat in the water by the end of the month.

Lofting the Katy Dink

Thursday, February 19th, 2015

I have been looking for a tender for my Campion 602 to use on my boat trip this summer.  What I need is something that is small and light so I can store it on the foredeck and be able to lift it on and off easily.  I had been looking at Skin-On-Frame prams when I saw Williams Atkin’s Katydidn’t.  Petey Dink is John Atkin’s updated version for cold molding.  I had build a Petey Dink at the Center for Wooden Boats when I took John Guzzwell’s cold molded boat building class.  I found a copy of the plans in the January 1936 issue of MoToR BoaTinG.  Katy_DinkI put the table of offsets in a spreadsheet so I could convert the feet-inches to inches.  I also changed the Heights ‘LWL to Sheer’ to ‘Base to Sheer’ so it would be easier to draw.  I lofted the Katydidn’t, which I call Katy Dink, in TurboCAD.  Katy Dink is 6 feet 6 inches long and was originally stripped planked with 3/8 x 1 inch strips.  I would strip plank her in 1/4 x 3/4 Western Red Cedar strips like I used to build my Puddle Duck canoe.    For the bow and stern transoms I am thinking of either Yellow Alaskan Ceder or Port Orford Cedar, for the keel CVG Douglas Fir, for the inner and outer gunnels Yellow Alaskan Ceder and for the seats Yellow Alaskan Ceder or Port Orford Cedar.  The boat would be glassed inside and out with several coatings of varnish.  All I need to do now is start looking for 7 to 8 foot lengths of Western Red Cedar to make the strips out of.

Scraping, Scraping, Scraping

Tuesday, December 16th, 2014

2014-12-13 09.55.55 (Medium)The scraping continues with the pram turned over.  The bottom has been scraped, sanded and sealed with TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy from Jamestown Distributors.  TotalBoat was easy to work with and when thinned with denatured alcohol turns almost to water.  I used a ratio of 1:2:1; 1 part hardener, 2 parts resin, 1 part denatured alcohol.  I heated the boat with a space heater prior to the application of the the first coat and gave the pram a total of two coats.  Once the epoxy started to gel, I scrapped off the excess on the transoms and the sides.

With the pram turned over I have removed the deck to give me access to all of the hull.  It was quite interesting to see all the different paint colors.  I am using Citristrip and I have used up the third half gallon.  I think that I will need one more half gallon to finish.  I have completed the first strip on the entire boat and the second strip on the forward half.  The forward half looks very good but there are a few minor spots that I would like to clean up before I start sanding and sealing.  I hope to finish the second strip next weekend.

Chris-Craft 10-foot Utility Racing Pram Kit Boat Restoration Begins

Thursday, November 20th, 2014
Stripping 60 Years of Paint

Stripping 60 Years of Paint

I have started the restoration of my Chris-Craft 10-foot Utility Racing Pram Kit Boat.  The pram was built by a Boeing engineer and my dad bought it in the early 60’s.  We called it the lake boat because we took it fishing at Sun Lake Park Resort in Eastern Washington.  The first step was to take it out of storage and get it to the RiversWest Boat Shop.  Most of the paint has been removed and the pram has been bright red, blue, white, yellow and ivory in its lifetime.  The last color scheme was ivory with brown trim.  I am thinking the paint scheme will be white or ivory with brown trim to bring it back to what it was just before the restoration.

I plan to power it with my 1967 Johnson 6hp and later try to find a Johnson or Evinrude 1950’s 5.5hp.  I plan to use it on the Willamette and Columbia rivers and the local lakes.  I think that it will be a blast.

Outboards: the Old and the New

Thursday, August 21st, 2014

Two_Outboards (Medium)Summer is almost over but I was finally able to pull two of my outboards out of storage.  In the foreground is a ’67 6hp Johnson 2 stroke that has not run for years.  I pulled the lower unit to replace the impeller; the old impeller was toast.  I pulled the flywheel to check the coils and points; both looked good so they won’t be replaced but I will reset the points.  With new oil in the lower unit I am almost ready to fire it up.  I need to change the connector on my 6 gallon tank from a hose bard to Johnson/Evinrude style and mix up some fresh gas 50:1.  Maybe it will be running this weekend.  There are many little things that I need to do to this motor like filing off some rough spots on the propeller, change the oil seal in the lower unit, new spark plugs and paint touch up.

The second outboard in the background is a ’07 9.9hp Mercury 4 stroke that I picked up used.  I will run it to warm it up and then I will change the lower unit oil and the engine oil.  As long as I set it up correctly it starts on the first pull.  I have a new 4 blade propeller that I am going to put on it and use it as a kicker on my 602.

I built the outboard motor stand last spring.  Having the motor stand makes it a lot easier to work the outboards.

How to Fit the Keel to the Bottom of a Nutshell Pram

Friday, November 6th, 2009

I was recently ask how to fit the keel to the bottom of a nutshell pram. There are several ways to fit the keel. Here is the way that I did it when building my nutshell.

  1. Clamp a stick 1×2 3 feet long to the transom so that one edge is at the centerline of the boat and sticks up over the bottom by 6 inches or so.
  2. You will need a piece of plywood or cardboard about 8 inches wide by 6 feet long, this will become the pattern for the keel.
  3. Clamp the pattern to the stick so that it is on the centerline of the boat.
  4. Decide where the keel will begin and make a mark on the boat.
  5. The pattern should touch the boat at about the patterns center with equal gap at the transom and where you made the mark.
  6. Tape some blocks to the boat and the pattern so that the pattern is reasonably supported.
  7. You will need a block of wood that is taller that the gap at the beginning and end of the keel.
  8. With a pen or pencil supported on the block, mark the contour of the bottom to the pattern.
  9. Remove the pattern and cut out just shy of the line.
  10. Place the pattern back on the boat as see if you have any high or low spots.
  11. Remove material until the gaps are less than 1/8 inch. Less than a 1/16 is better.
  12. Mark the outline of the keel to the pattern and cut it out also.
  13. Use the pattern to mark the Oak and cut out the keel.
  14. Place the keel on the boat an look for any high and low spots. Again 1/8 of an inch is ok but 1/16 is better.
  15. My preference is not to use hard epoxy to attach the keel to the boat. I have used 3M 5200 but something like G-Flex would work also. You want something that has a little give to absorb shocks.
  16. Drill from inside the boat into the keel for bronze screws to hold the keel in place while the 5200 cures and the screws also give extra strength to supporting the keel.

You will may want to trim off the extra 5200 and attach brass half round to protect the keel when beaching. The whole process is fairly simple and straightforward.

Randy is Building a Boat

Monday, November 12th, 2007

I am starting to build another boat. The first boat I built was the Nutshell Pram designed by Joel White. This time I will be building the Willy Winship, a 13′ 9″ sailing skiff designed by John Atkins. This boat can be rowed, sailed or powered by a small outboard motor. The method of construction will be the same as the Nutshell Pram, glued plywood lapstrake.

Some of the skills I plan to learn or improve are scarfing, lofting and lining off planks. Lofting is drawing the boat full scale. This will be done on a 4′ x 8′ 1/4 thick plywood painted white. For this design, only the bow stem and stern need to be lofted and once drawn they will be used to transfer to the White Oak that the bow stem and stern will be made out of. I am using White Oak for the stern, bow stem, skeg and guard rails. White Oak is heavy but also is very strong and robust.

I plan on providing descriptions and explanations as the boat construction progresses which may be technical and terse. If you find that you don’t understand someone thing please post a comment and I will try to provide more information.