Archive for December, 2010

Resurrecting a Stanley Bailey #3 Hand Plane

Sunday, December 26th, 2010

I picked up a Stanley Baily #3 hand plane at the local building supply junk store while I was getting some lumber for an oar rack that I will be building.  This sorry plane had been drowned and has a serious case of rust but is not terminal.  The rust looks fresh and the screws and the adjustment knob turns so it is not rusted solid.  The front knob is cracked and will be repaired or replaced.  The rear tote is in good shape except for a bad paint job.   The first task is to disassemble the plane and clean up the parts.

I use electrolysis to remove the rust on the steel parts.   Electrolysis is a method of using a direct current to drive the iron oxides (rust) back to iron and oxygen.  The iron becomes a black slug on the steel that is easily washed off.  Many proponents of electrolysis cleaning use a automotive battery charger to send between 4 and 10 amps through the part.   I built a constant current source that drives 100 milliamperes through my parts.  Although slower, I am more comfortable with the lower current and some suggest that it does a better job.  The part in the tank is the plane iron (blade) and will be left there for about 24 hours.  The electrolysis works in line of sight, so to ensure even cleaning, I have four pieces of steel re-bar as my electrodes.

When all clean and tuned up, this little #3 hand plane will be put to good use.  It will join ranks with other Stanley planes that I have and the wooden planes that I have built.

Philly Style Chamfering Plane

Saturday, December 18th, 2010

I built a Philly Style Chamfering Plane to cut 45 degree chamfers and to 8 side spars, oars and paddles.   The plane is based on a 10 inch wooden block plane and has a fixed guide and an adjustable guide.    The adjustable guide is not shown because I did not like the first two that I made.  I have designed a new jig to cut the slots in the adjustable guide and will make it soon.

For this design I used a lever cap with a brass threaded insert and a brass knurled thumb screw.  The lever cap makes it easier to adjust the plane iron than with a wedge.  To adjust the iron, the thumb screw is loosened so the plane iron is held in place but can move when hit with an adjusting mallet.  Once the blade is set the thumb screw is tightened until snug.   The cross pin is 3/8 brass rod that is cut slightly longer than needed and then sanded to be flush.  I still have to heat threat the iron and then sharpen it.

Fiberglassing the Outside of the Canoe

Saturday, December 18th, 2010

The outside of the canoe has been sanded,  sealed and sanded again in preparation for fiberglassing.   The fiberglass cloth is laid over the hull and trimmed to be at least an inch in excess on all sides.   I used clothespins to hold the fiberglass cloth in place while I apply the epoxy.  The intent is the just fill the weave of the cloth and not have any runs or puddles and not to have any spots that are starved for epoxy.  I am using a 3 inch chipping brush instead of a roller or squeegee to apply the epoxy.  It is the first time I tried one and I found that it worked very well.  There were several loose bristles that I had to go back later and clean up.

The only problem I had fiberglassing the canoe was with the stem reinforcing strips.  The stips are cut on a bias of 45 degrees to the weave.  The strips are had some runs in the cloth that I will have to sand out later.   I will wait until the epoxy has gone green before I apply the next layer of epoxy to fill in the weave.