Archive for the ‘Canoe’ Category

Inside Glassed

Tuesday, March 27th, 2012

The inside of the canoe was glassed last week. There are a few ragged strands of glass at the stems but I will sand most of those out. I was pleasantly please with how stiff the canoe was when the epoxy curried. Only two coat of epoxy were used on the inside so there is texture to the glass that will make a non-skid surface. I am going to do scuppered gunwales as described at http://www.michneboat.com/Gunwales.htm. I cut 6 pieces of 3/8 x 3/4 out of a 2×2 by 16 foot Alaskan Yellow Cedar. My gunwales will be a little smaller than I wanted but they will still look great on the canoe. Most books recommend hardwood for the gunwales but I like the look of AYC and it will complement the Western Red Cedar well. There were some knots in the AYC that I will have to splice out. Since the strips are 16 feet long and the canoe is only 13 feet long, there will be at least 2 feet left over from each strip. I might have enough strips to double up on the outer gunwale. I estimate that I will need 10 feet of the 12 that will be cut off of the strips to make the blocks that are part of the inner gunwale. I think that I will have a 12 inch block where the center thwart will go and use 3 1/2 blocks with 3 1/2 spaces elsewhere.

For the thwart, deck and bulkhead I will be using Port Orford Cedar. I have 2×12 board that I have been saving for the canoe. I am in a quandary on the shape of the thwart. I could do a simple thwart or I could do a carved thwart that would be more practical for carrying. I will have to decide in a few weeks. Alaskan Yellow Cedar and Port Orford Cedar both have a strong smell when they are cut. The Port Orford Cedar is more spicy and the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is more musky smell. The boat shop was quite aromatic.

For the seats, I have a second 2×2 by 16 piece of AYC that I have cut into two 3/4×1 1/2 strips. I think that I will start with a woven cane seat using plastic cane. I talked to someone who cane’s at last year’s San Diego County Fair and he said that it was hard to get good quality cane anymore and he uses plastic cane for anything that will be outside.

Sanded and Sealed

Saturday, January 21st, 2012

After two moves last year, the canoe in storage for 4 months and sitting 5 months in my living room; I have started working on the canoe again. I finished sanding the inside just after Christmas and finally was able to make time to seal the canoe. The idea of sealing the cedar strips is so that you have a uniform color when apply the fiber glass cloth. The process is simple and was recommend by a fellow canoe builder. Put a thin coat of epoxy on the hull and let it soak in, once is starts to set, scrap off all the excess. I then filled all the cracks and crevices with epoxy thickened with cedar wood flour. Once the filler has set, scrap off any excess and wait a week for it to cure before a light sanding with 120 grit. The next step it to cut the fiber glass cloth to size.

Scraping and Sanding

Sunday, January 2nd, 2011

I have started the scraping and sanding of the epoxy on the canoe.  I used a cabinet  scraper to get the most of the lumps off and then went over the area with a random orbital sander.  I still have to make one more pass and then I will put another coat of epoxy on to fill the low spots.  I will try using the cabinet scraper when the epoxy is green to see if I can reduce the sanding later.

Fiberglassing the Outside of the Canoe

Saturday, December 18th, 2010

The outside of the canoe has been sanded,  sealed and sanded again in preparation for fiberglassing.   The fiberglass cloth is laid over the hull and trimmed to be at least an inch in excess on all sides.   I used clothespins to hold the fiberglass cloth in place while I apply the epoxy.  The intent is the just fill the weave of the cloth and not have any runs or puddles and not to have any spots that are starved for epoxy.  I am using a 3 inch chipping brush instead of a roller or squeegee to apply the epoxy.  It is the first time I tried one and I found that it worked very well.  There were several loose bristles that I had to go back later and clean up.

The only problem I had fiberglassing the canoe was with the stem reinforcing strips.  The stips are cut on a bias of 45 degrees to the weave.  The strips are had some runs in the cloth that I will have to sand out later.   I will wait until the epoxy has gone green before I apply the next layer of epoxy to fill in the weave.

Canoe All Stripped

Friday, April 9th, 2010

I finished stripping the canoe. Toward the end the bungee method did not work as well as I would have liked. I think that I will try clamps and wedges on the next canoe.

For the next canoe I am also going to cut the strips 1/16 thicker than needed and run them through the thickness planer, taking 1/32 off each side. I would do this both for the 3/4 inch cut and the 1/4 inch cut. I found that my strips varied a little bit in thickness from one to another.

I have started taking off the high spots with a plane and I will do the outer stems next. Between the inner and outer stem the bow and stern can take some punishment without breaking the canoe.