Archive for the ‘Tolman’ Category

Looking For Medium

Thursday, March 15th, 2018

I have been glassing the insides of the hull panels with 5.6 oz fiberglass cloth and West System epoxy.  I predominantly use 205 Fast Hardener which is usable down to 40° F which I typically use around 50 to 60° F.  This last week the temperatures were in the 60’s during the day and dropping to the low 50’s at night.  I wanted a long working time so I could have used the 206 Slow Hardener but that may not cure completely when the temperature drops.  I recently read that you can mix the fast and slow hardeners to get a medium hardener.  I tried this on the rear side panels and after curing for two days I don’t see any issues.  I will give it another 3 to 5 days before I sand it and then I will definitely know if there are any issues.

Friday in the Boat Shop, March 9th

Saturday, March 10th, 2018

The weather was nice yesterday and I was able to open the shop while working. Mark N. show up and help me cut the fiberglass and peel ply. Later Rick H. showed up to watch the proceedings. Amazingly both had somewhere else to be when time came to epoxy the fiberglass the the side panel.

The process I use for applying fiberglass the the panel is to lay out the fiberglass where it needs to be and smooth it out. I use lead weights to hold it in place. Since the fiberglass cloth can be pulled out of shape there is a lot of smoothing out. I also set out the equipment that I will need: many sets of gloves, paper coffee cups, stirring sticks, squeegee and paint roller with an epoxy tolerant paint roller cover.

I mix up a batch of epoxy; in this case West Systems 105 resin and 205 Fast hardener. The fiberglass I am using is style 3733 5.6oz. X 50″ Fiberglass Cloth. I pour the epoxy over the fiberglass and spread it evenly. I then make up another batch of mixed epoxy and go and see how the previous batch of epoxy has penetrated the fiberglass. I add more epoxy where it is needed and the rest of the epoxy is used on the adjacent dry area. Once the fiberglass looks wet, I use the roller to even it out and move epoxy to a dry area if needed.  I want the fiberglass wet but not too wet and not too dry; if is off I can still make it work but it is work.

The peel ply was cut into squares and once I have an area of coated fiberglass I put the peel ply down and work out any folds or air bubbles. I was asked why I cut the peel ply into squares instead of using it full length and the reason is to make it easier to remove the folds and bubbles. Also working a large piece of peel ply is a lot of effort to flatten out. Sometimes I have stubborn bubbles that just don’t want to work out so I add denatured alcohol to the paper towel and the alcohol breaks down the surface tension and thins the epoxy. The last thing I do is clean up the tools with denatured alcohol and leave the shop before I get any epoxy on me.  The photo shows the finished side panel with fiberglass and peel ply waiting for the epoxy to cure.

The next Friday at the Boat Show is looking to be March 23rd.

Tolman Skiff Build Resumes

Tuesday, March 6th, 2018

After two months of little progress the Tolman build is moving ahead again.  I was sick in January and the garage was too cold to epoxy in February. The bottom panels have been scarfed, the scarfs glued up and the inside of the panels have been glassed.  In the photo I show two rear side panels having the scarfs glued up at the same time.  After the epoxy cures I will glass the inside of the panels and then they will go into storage until they are needed.  The rear side panels are 32 inches wide while the forward side panels are 48 inches wide to account for the sweep of the bow.  The forward side panels are put on the hull, marked, cutout and then glassed on the inside. It is a lot easier to glass the inside of the panel while they are flat.   The outside of the panels will be glassed when the hull is upside down..

Transom and Stem

Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017

I glued up the transom with the lower doubler; I still need to add the 2×12 and upper doublers.  The two slots cut in the lower doubler are where the stringers will fit into the transom.  I have made the router patterns to cut out the rounded over parts of the transom so I must likely will do that next.  Having the main part of the transom in the correct shape will help when I cut out the 2×12 and upper doublers.

I had a problem with the wood I used for the stem and even though I had cut it and shaped it correctly I need to make a new one.  The stem is glued up from two Alaskan Yellow Cedar 2×4’s about 4 feet long.  I will plane down the blank to be 2-3/4 x 3-1/2.  The glue line will be the center line of the 3-1/2 inch side.  I will cut off the forward corners at 34° and then shape the rest of the stem from there.

A Dilemma

Tuesday, September 26th, 2017

Home Depot delivered the LVL and I-joists today and I started cutting out the stringers.  LVL is Linear Veneer Lumber which is made similar to plywood where the grain of the veneers in plywood are at 90 degrees to each other, in LVL they all run the same direction which gives the beam it strength. I-joists are beams that have LVL on the top and bottom with OSB (oriented strand board) in the middle.  This make a lighter weight beam that will be used for the building frame.

The stringers are made out of the 1-7/8″ x 14″ LVL beam at cut 8 degrees to get two mirror stringers that are 7-1/16 inch tall.  I setup my track saw to cut the 16 foot long beam in half; I had to use all three of my tracks segments for my track saw to allow me to cut the entire length of the beam in one cut.  Once I have made the stringer templates I can continue cutting and shaping the stringers.  I had to clean up the stringers a little because they were not completely straight; there is a slight bend in two directions.  Nothing to adversely affect the boat but I needed to address it now to avoid problems in the future.

I next started working on the transom by marking the outline.  Only lines marked in red get cut and I need to add the angle that the plywood is cut to.  Keeping track of all angles for the cuts can get tricky.  I will do most of the cut with the track saw and then finish up with a jig saw to connect the cuts that make an inside corner.  Some of the corners are rounded and I will rough cut with the jig saw and then make a template for my router to make the fillets and round overs.

Home Depot gave me a big dilemma; I had ordered a 15 foot LVL beam for the stringers so I could build a 20 foot boat.  Home Depot delivered a 16 foot LVL beam so now I could build at 21 foot boat.  The 20 foot boat will barely fit in the garage; how will I fit a 21 foot boat?